Vale de Moses
Amieira, Portugal
Warm inclusive yoga and wellbeing retreat in a stunning mountain valley
Run by husband-and-wife Andrew and Vonetta Winter, Vale de Moses is set in a pretty valley with both river and forest. It has a warm, easy-going feel, rather like a large friendly house party. The retreats offer yoga with holistic treatments, sauna and sweat lodge, wellness workshops, vegan cooking classes, forest bathing and lovely walks. Do as much or as little as you please, be nourished on mountain air and delicious food, and rest in glorious peace.
our Reviewer Sarah Garbett says:
‘That’s what’s nice about this place – you really are invited to do as much or as little as you wish, without there being any feeling of you missing out on something’
Queen of Retreats says:
‘The setting is sheer beauty - a true back-to-nature retreat with fresh mountain air and hand-carved paths through steep pine forests. The yoga shala’s position is magical; you feel as if you are floating over the valley. Animal lovers will be in heaven hanging out with the retreat’s four dogs, reclusive cat and two pot-bellied pigs. Transfer from Lisbon if you can; the Porto coach ride is long and arduous’
Experiences
Themed group retreats run on set dates and are led by guest teachers, as well as the retreat’s own team. Typically, there is daily morning meditation followed by a yoga class inspired by ashtanga, vinyasa flow and dynamic hatha yoga.
There is an afternoon sweat lodge experience or a workshop during most retreats - sometimes both on alternate days. Learn the secrets of better sleep, cooking with medicinal herbs or vegetarian Portuguese cooking with retreat chef Sonia. Watching her blend local produce with ayurvedic wisdom is a lovely experience.
All retreats include a 30-minute health consultation followed by a one-hour harmonising bodywork or acupuncture session from a therapist. You can book additional massages inspired by Thai yoga massage, Chinese tui na, Indonesian massage, shiatsu and shamanism. Medical herbalism is also available.
There’s lots of free time to do exactly as you please. Curl up on the old sofa with a good book, find a hammock, unwind in the sauna, cleanse your body and spirit in the traditional sweat lodge, and spend evenings stargazing around the fire pit.
If you fancy the great outdoors, there are miles of endless paths through the surrounding forest and willing guides in the shape of the lovely retreat dogs. Sunbathe by two pretty streams, splash in cascading natural river pools, or simply be wowed by the views as you breathe the pure mountain air.
Spaces
The stilted and glass yoga shala is spacious and light, with wooden floors. It’s also used for Thai massage. There are two dedicated treatment rooms. Both are light, simply decorated and clean, with valley views.
If you crave solitude, there are benches and loungers dotted all over. Favourites include the bench space under the eaves and the wonderfully comfortable hammock chairs.
The farmhouse is the main retreat space, set on two levels with an interior courtyard, and a grand piano (with a wonderful Ganesha presiding). A busy room multi-tasks as a library, office, staff room, dog sofa and guest sitting room. Steps lead down to the flagstone tea-making and dining area.
You can choose from bedrooms in the main farmhouse, or sleep in one of the four shared, open-plan cottages in the river valley below. There are several belle tents with hammocks for those who prefer a glamping experience.
You’ll sleep well; all bedrooms have good quality mattresses with memory-foam toppers and mosquito nets. There are wood burners for cosy season-end evenings. All bathrooms are private with showers, though none are en-suite.
Sustenance
The vegan-veggie food features delicious menus created by chef Sonia and inspired by ayurvedic principles. Most menus are gluten-free and other requirements can be accommodated with advance notice.
Expect more food at breakfast and lunch, with a lighter dinner. Think super porridge made with quinoa and goji berries for breakfast, with pots of chopped or cooked fruits, yoghurt, and ground seeds.
Lunch consists of around eight dishes including colourful salads, roasted veggies and different grains prepared with lots of flavour, along with an Indian feast or a Japanese-inspired spread.
Dinner is usually light to help us sleep more deeply, and consists of dahls, soups, sushi, wraps, fresh salads and dips.
The tea station has a wide range of herbal teas, mostly homegrown, fresh ginger and local honey, and black tea. Coffee is served after breakfast and lunch.