Turning back the clock at JOALI BEING in the Maldives

Mary Lussiana reviews a wellbeing island in the Maldives, and discovers delicious cuisine, the joys of watsu and vistas of endless blue

Turning back the clock at JOALI BEING

I confess I am a retreat junkie, happy to embrace falling off the edge of real life to spend a week tucked away somewhere which is or seems to be far removed from the normal hurly burly of my deadline-driven life. For me time, that has often been the Maldives.  Your own private island and those vistas of endless blue on blue horizons, especially in an overwater bungalow, where not even a lick of golden sand separates you from watery infinity, tick the box every time.  It’s the perfect marriage.

And actually, it was.  By the time I arrived on a sea plane from Malé, I was ready to surrender to a wellness retreat. JOALI BEING is a retreat island and my room was lovely; a vast space in tones of jungle green opening out onto a very private deck with a good-sized swimming pool stretching out into the ocean. It became my fortress where I meditated and motivated myself…or motivate myself if I am on a detox programme and am starting to suffer.

Days soon got into a rhythm, with staff helpful about finding slots for treatments I wanted and suggesting ones I hadn’t thought of – after discussing my needs.  There is also a big learning element here, which I was keen to take advantage of.  In the herbology centre, AKTAR, the resident herbalist fixes problems through natural herbs and was happy to share her expertise with me at a workshop.

At JOALI BEING they want their guests to take something home with them.  I would say the opposite, that I left something with them – a few kilos, several worry lines and a lot of stress

And as well as losing weight – always an aim for me on retreat - I wanted to embrace the art of relaxation.  For the former, there was the cryotherapy chamber, where the staff were kind enough to stand outside, as I was terrified about getting locked in!  It was completely bearable, if horribly cold, but so bracing when over - and the thought of burning 600 calories in just one minute drove me on.  For the latter, I had the Watsu pool, which was deeply relaxing, allowing me to float both physically and mentally for almost an hour in warm water and a dark room, whilst being cradled by the therapist. It’s truly liberating.

I also ventured to the sound therapy hall. Here with sophisticated instruments playing over you, many people have found a great sense of healing.  But for me this – and the Discovery Sound Path in the wood - left me cold.  I much preferred the results of the excellent anti-ageing skin care range, Dr. Levy.  Together with cryotherapy which is known to reverse ageing, I felt the two combined gave me a good chance of winding back the clock a little.

But what also helped was the setting. Taking your personal bike, parked outside your villa, in the morning to ride to breakfast over a bridge under which baby sharks always seemed to gather was a glorious way to start the day. Diving into the diaphanous waters from my own villa or taking a dip in my private pool in between treatments was a constant joy. And each time I looked up at the blue skies or watched the sun set over the palm studded beach in the warm night air, I upped my feeling of gratitude.

At JOALI BEING suffering isn’t obligatory, even when detoxing. Wine was allowed, but I was on a teetotal month anyway, so I wasn’t tempted by alcohol and the food was brilliantly planned to be healthy without hurting. That was one of the standout qualities of JOALI BEING, the food. The head chef is a passionate advocate of sourcing locally and firmly believes you are what you eat. The variety and the flavour of his dishes, on a small island in the middle of nowhere, was impressive.

I particularly loved the seafood nasi goreng and the crunchy roasted broccoli and cauliflower with feta and sunflowers seeds.  At dinner-only Flow, the most gourmet option on the island, favourites were the salmon and tuna mosaic, as well as the clean but oh so full of flavour Dover sole consommé. For tea enthusiasts there is a tea bar with a 60-strong collection to explore.

After five days, I was slightly thinner, noticeably more relaxed and younger-looking on my face with a spring in my step that hadn’t been there when I arrived.  At JOALI BEING they want their guests to take something home with them.  I would say the opposite, that I left something with them – a few kilos, several worry lines and a lot of stress.

Mary Lussiana

Has been a travel, food and spa writer for over 35 years, contributing to Conde Nast Traveller, House & Garden, The Daily Telegraph, The Times and more. Now based in the south of Portugal, where she lives with her husband and their yellow Labrador, Bellini.

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