Experiencing a joyful recharge at Burren Yoga Retreat in Ireland
Karen Hockney reviews a yoga boot camp in Co Galway, where she discovers a plethora of yoga styles, shriek-filled sea swims and an uplifting start to her new year
Is there a better time to head to an alcohol-free, vegetarian yoga boot camp than just 48 hours after the social whirl of New Year’s Eve? This was my thinking arriving at Burren Yoga Retreat, on the border of Co Galway and Co Clare in the west of Ireland.
“Niamh led us through challenging four-minute-long hip openers of yin, a mash up of yoga and Pilates (hence yogalates), and energetic ashtanga, always circling back to the downward and upward dogs of vinyasa flow. Her gentle encouragement and tiny tweaks got me elongating my poses and stretches further than I thought possible, generating the most serene high”
I’m a yoga enthusiast who doesn’t practise as regularly as I should, so this intensive dive into vinyasa flow, yogalates, kundalini, Bikram, ashtanga, restorative, yin, sleep-inducing yoga nidra and meditation was an unmissable opportunity to not only deepen my practice, but also step off the hamster wheel and enjoy some self-reflection and peace.
Owner David Brocklebank has spent 30 years creating this modern, purpose-built retreat in the Burren, an area of outstanding natural beauty, dominated by glacial-era limestone rock plateaus overlooking the Atlantic west coast.
Each retreat is hosted by one instructor throughout and I lucked out with Niamh Jones, an inspirational and passionate leader, who introduced Bikram yoga to Ireland 20 years ago and whose enthusiasm and good humour know no bounds.
After a sound night’s sleep (thank you, yoga nidra), we launched into the five-day programme. Each day began with a 20-minute sunrise meditation at 8am in the impressively spacious light-filled studio, followed by yoga.
Niamh led us through challenging four-minute-long hip openers of yin, a mash-up of yoga and Pilates (hence yogalates), and energetic ashtanga, always circling back to the downward and upward dogs of vinyasa flow. Her gentle encouragement and tiny tweaks got me elongating my poses and stretches further than I thought possible, generating the most serene high.
A communal buffet breakfast in the dining room followed, with a delicious array of porridge, yoghurt, granola, forest berry compote, freshly baked porridge bread and banana bread, cheese, fruit and boiled eggs on offer.
With a minimum of almost three hours of yoga each day, including a 40-minute late evening meditation and yoga nidra, it’s not for the faint-hearted, although all sessions and activities are optional.
However, it’s also suitable for beginners as well as seasoned yogis. There were nine of us on the retreat with an age span of late 20s to early 60s - a barrister with her beginner mother, three pharmacist friends, a civil servant, a headmaster (the only man), and a schoolteacher, all from Ireland - and some were such fans that this was their second visit.
There were two bonus teatime sessions; the first was 90 minutes of Bikram, where a specific set of 26 exercises are practised in a room heated to between 90- and 105-degrees Fahrenheit. Feeling my poses deepen due to the body’s extreme warmth was hugely rewarding.
The second started with Niamh’s own invigorating energy medicine meditation to power up the seven chakras and remove blockages, followed by flowing kundalini hip rotations and exuberant chanting to create energy around the third eye and heart chakras. She also introduced elements of reiki, shamanic healing, qigong and restorative yoga to the session, after which I experienced an inexplicable and uplifting sense of joy.
Daily guided hikes with Dave and his efficient and friendly retreat coordinator Joanne saw us climbing the incredible limestone tracks of Mullaghmore - where we even managed a few yoga poses after skirting past the wild mountain goats – and exploring the incredible Lough Avalla Farm Loop, whose medieval woodland enclaves are said to have inspired JR Tolkien to write The Hobbit.
An impossibly pretty circuit along the Wild Atlantic Way at Flaggy Shore ended with a bracing and shriek-filled sea swim, followed by a toasty warm up in the mobile beachside sauna!
With appetites sharpened by the intense regime and fresh air, chef Claire fed us well with an ever-changing buffet supper of tasty vegetarian dishes, including red kidney bean chilli with gluten-free cornbread topping, new potatoes in olive tapenade, celeriac salad, red cabbage slaw with pomegranate and orange segments, smoked tofu and roast turnip curry, miso roasted aubergines and bang bang cucumber with garlic, chilli, soy and toasted nuts.
Dessert was equally divine; raw salted caramel tart, boiled orange and almond cake and dark chocolate mousse were mouth-wateringly good and consumed completely guilt-free, thanks to our days full of movement!
While not a luxury hotel, the centre is comfortable, practical and functional. My spacious luxury en-suite double room in the newest wing was simply but stylishly fitted with pale oak fixtures, a desk, a comfortable bed, neutral décor tones and large picture windows overlooking the grounds.
The centre is sustainably run, with a rainwater tank feeding all bathrooms and drinking water coming directly from the property’s 160ft deep limestone well.
There are extra costs if you want a room key (the cash deposit is refundable), a full body Swedish or hot stone massage or a Skinician vegan facial with the delightful Pamela. Lunch, which is eaten at a local café after each hike, is also at your own expense.
Admirably, the centre is Wi-Fi-free, apart from reception in the upstairs lounge, meaning you can truly switch off from regular daily life, yet check in if you really need to. It’s also a shoe-free zone, which grounds the whole experience as well as keeping the mud out!
I left reluctantly after a fulfilling week, promising myself to keep up my daily practice. Being in glorious nature, experiencing many different yoga disciplines with new faces, while enjoying amazing food and lots of laughter is perhaps the most energising and uplifting start ever to a new year.
